Quality Unpainted Ceramic Bisque

Basic Ceramic Techniques

Using a sharp cleaning tool, remove the seam lines on the greenware by scraping them off diagonally being sure not to gouge the ware. Recarve any detail removed during the scraping process. Gently sand over the seam lines with a sander. With a dust brush, brush the dust from the greenware then take a damp sponge and go over the seam lines and other surface that needs smoothing. If you see the "hard" spot, place a little slip on your sponge and cover over the spot.

Base coats need to be as smooth as possible. Do not apply too much paint at one time and work quickly as you will not want it to dry in ridges which will show up when you dry brush. You want to cover the piece completely without filling in the detail. If you are BC a textured items, paint in the direction of the detail, not against the detail. Two thin, smooth coats are always best for coverage. Adding a touch of contrasting color to the first coat will let you see where you have been. The second coat will be the basic color of your base coat. When base coating with black or other dark color, when you have the applied the first coat and it has dried; if you see white specks – your base coat is too thick. Check out the complete article on our blog.

Using the size brush appropriate for the pieces, apply color to the tip of the brush. Remove excess and work the paint INTO the brush by stroking it back and forth across a piece of paper or old blue jeans. Apply color to the desired areas by going across the ridges of the detail, keeping out of the crevices. Repeat process until desired effect is achieved, allowing paint to dry between coats. Clean brushes and be sure they are dry before each use.

HOW TO ANTIQUE Using a good quality filbert brush in the appropriate size for the piece & working a small area at a time, apply your antiquing color in the directions of the ridges. Wipe back using an antique media & a soft cloth (old tee’s work great) to remove the excess being sure to leave an appropriate amount of color in the crevices so as to add depth and dimension to your piece. The purpose of antiquing is to add depth, dimension & “life” to your piece not to make it dark.

HOW TO USE OIL-BASE COLORS (i.e. Kimple Intense Translucents) After base coat is dry, apply desired Intense Translucent to bisque using a Kimple "I.T." sable filbert brush to appropriate area. Using a cloth or quality paper towel, wipe or pat back the applied color to desired intensity. If a less intense color is desired, use water or Antique Media to pat back color. Using water to wipe back will pull more color off of the piece then the use of Antique Media will. Antique Media will blend the color more subtlety. After every area of the piece has been completed carefully spray the piece with Perfect Matte fixative in a well-ventilated area. Do not over apply the fixative. Intense Translucents will remain slightly tacky until dry and fixed with a sealer. For more details check out the link on Kimple Intense Translucents.

When using a loose glitter, you will need first to apply a glue or liquid glitter or snow. This will need to be wet. Sprinkle on the loose glitter. It will adhere to the glue and will deepen the glittery affect. When using a liquid glitter, just paint it on as when Base Coating. This may require several coats to achieve desired effect. Be sure to let the glitter dry thoroughly.

Mix well before using adding white stain if too thick to apply. Use the appropriate cleaning tool, brush, palette knife or tweezers to apply snow to the desired areas. Apply glitter over snow while wet and let it dry overnight. Clean brushes with soap and water.

decals declas in warm water, allowing the decal time to release itself from it's paper backing. When loose, gently pick it up and place in desired location on the piece. Hold in place with a finger and remove the backing by sliding it from underneath the decal. Keep the decal secure and using a "squee-gee" (a small piece of rubber with a beveled edge), remove air bubbles and excess water to the edge of the decal picking up the water with a paper towel.
NOTE: If all the water is not removed or if there is an air pocket, your decal will not fire correctly. Anywhere the decal is not attached to the glaze; the decal will fire away.
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